Travel with Tobey and Sue

Travel with Tobey and Sue
Tobey and Sue in Africa

Friday, January 13, 2023

January 12, 2023 - Buenos Aires, Argentina

After walking over eight miles yesterday I wasn't sure if our feet were going to go along with another walking tour today, so I guess it was good that a large portion of our half day city tour was by car. Departure was at 9am and covered many portions of the city.
From our hotel in the Palermo district, we went by many of the gardens we walked yesterday, but today our guide shared more of the history of the area dating back to the 18th century. The next area was Recoleta which is very affluent and houses many of the foreign embassies in the old "palaces" which were built in French style architecture. The area is home to the National Fine Arts Museum, the National Library of Argentina, the Recoleta Cultural Center, as well as the Recoleta Cemetery.

The Mariano Moreno National Library - the strange looking building above hidden by the trees - is the largest library in Argentina. The books are actually in lower rooms below the ground because books "are the root of learning." The top spreads out for reading areas where knowledge can spread, like leaves on a tree. From the outside, not very impressive until you hear the thinking behind the design.

Our next stop was the Recoleta Cemetery. We have seen lots of dog walkers here in the city and we spotted a couple on our way into the cemetery.
Recolata Cemetery is considered one of the most unusual in the world and was declared the city's first official public burial place in 1822. It covers about 17 acres and there are almost 4800 vaults. It was strange to see the ladders going deep underground where the caskets are stacked. Many of the elaborate cared scroll-work and pillars are made from marble, as well as the altars inside. This is the main walk as we entered.

Below is the grave of the wife of San Martin. He is national hero of Argentina, a great military commander and one of the liberators of the Spanish South America.
The vault below is where Eva Peron is entombed.She died in 1952, but in 1955 while they were waiting for the construction of monumental burial site to be completed, the military overthrew Peron's government and stole her body. They hid her remains for 19 years to prevent it from becoming a weapon against the new regime. FINALLY, her body was recovered in Italy where it had been buried under a false name and returned to Argentina. Her remains are now buried deep within her father's family vault in Recoleta.


After the cemetery, we headed to the "downtown" area of the city where many of the government buildings are locarted. Here are some of the buildings we saw along the way.


Below is the Ministry of Public Works building and it features Eva Peron's face. She is looking north and is giving a speech to the people. She helped to create many programs to help the common and poor so that is why she is on this building.
The Metropolitan Cathedral is the main Catholic church in Buenos Aires. It is in the city center, overlooking Plaza de Mayo, on the corner of San Martin and Rivadavia Streets, in the San Nicolas neighborhood. From the outside it doesn't really look like a church, but the 12 pillars represent the 12 apostles. We arrived in time to see the changing of the guards for the tomb of San Martin, the national hero, who is buried here, as well as the tomb of the unknown soldier.

This church is where Pope Francis, as Archbishop Jorge Bergoglio, used to perform mass before assuming office in the Vatican in 2013.

In the center of Plaza de Mayo is this statue dedicated to the women - and grandmothers - who fight for finding the children kidnapped during the military dictatorship. They were children of protesters against the government. They are still looking for over 500 children!
The pink building is the central government building and the president was in today. How do we know that? you ask. The small flag under the large Argentinian flag represents that "the boss is in the house."

We had a chance to take a quick walk through one of the large "mercados" or markets before we were off to the La Boca neighborhood. La Boca is located near the docks area and most of the houses are constructed from wood or corregated metal left over from the shipyards and docks area. The immigrants who settled here gathered leftover supplies to build them and they are quite colorful because they used what was available. Now, the residents continue to paint them is the bright colors.

There are lots of artists in this neighborhood, too.

This mural depicts the strength of women and the struggle that cotinues today to search for the missing children.

It was a pretty full day and we headed back to our hotel about 2pm. We grabbed a quick lunch and spend some time shopping for a new leather belt for Tobey. Unfortunately, we didn't find what he was searching for, but we will continue the quest!

This evening we had a 7pm pick up to go to dinner and a tango show. We were the first to be picked up for this tour ... and an hour later we arrived. The dinner was okay, but we both liked the steak we had on Tuesday night better. The tango show was great - but long. It was amazing how well they dance together! We didn't leave until after midnight and when you are first to be picked up for something that means you are last to be dropped off. We finally got back to the hotel at 1am and have a 7:30 am pickup for our flight on Friday. Short night but a fun day.

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