European Vacation # 10 – Prague - This and That - Odds and Ends

Prague is home to a number of famous cultural attractions, as well as many world-class museums. We went to the Veletržní Palác to see an incredible exhibit, “The Slav Epic” by Alfons Mucha. The 20 murals, painted between 1910 and 1928, were hidden away in monasteries during the war and discovered in the 1960s. Many were damaged and the restoration completed about 1968. No pictures were allowed in the exhibit, but you can check out this website to get an idea of what they are like – it is well worth checking. http://www.artdaily.org/index.asp?int_sec=2&int_new=55340

We also walked through Josefov, Prague’s Jewish Quarter, looking at what was once the largest Jewish ghetto in Europe.

The Spanish Synagogue was built in 1868. During WWII, the Germans used the building as a repository for property taken from the Jews.

Here’s an oddity in the Jewish Quarter: a church. This mid-14th century Gothic church sits right in the middle of Josefov and used to divide the Jewish community — literally and figuratively. Just outside is a statue of Franz Kafka, an author, who was born and raised in this area.

Our wanderings also took us to the John Lennon Peace Wall. The formerly ordinary wall has been called Lennon´s since the 1980s, when people filled it with John Lennon-inspired graffiti and pieces of lyrics from Beatles songs. Why? Lennon was a hero to the pacifist youth of Central and Eastern Europe during the totalitarian era. Prior to 1989 when communism ruled, western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities, and especially John Lennon´s songs, because they were praising freedom that didn’t exist here. Since his death in 1980, he has become a sort of hero to the youth in Prague. The youth defied authorities, even risking prison, when they painted the graffiti. The Communist police kept whitewashing over the portrait and messages of peace, but they could never manage to keep the wall clean. Even the installation of surveillance cameras and posting an overnight guard couldn’t stop the opinions from being expressed. It was a small war of Czech people against communism. Originally covered in anti-Communist graffiti, now it is covered in messages of love and peace.

While most of Prague’s buildings escaped destruction during WWII, Prague itself did not escape human destruction. Reinhard Heydrich, a high-ranking Nazi official, was responsible for the death of thousands of Jews in Prague. In 1942 he was assassinated, but the Nazis leveled the village of Lidice and executed villagers in reprisal for the assassination of Heydrich.

We came upon this simulated “concentration camp” and followed the guide telling the story of the assassination of Heydrich and biographies of the key players on both sides. It was well done and very interesting.
Public transportation is inexpensive and easy to use in Prague. We took the tram to Vyšehrad. Vyšehrad is the very first seat of Czech princes and kings, since the first coronated Czech king, Vratislaus I, lived there. Its fortress is located on a high cliff above the river Vltava. The Gothic towers of the Church of St. Peter and Paul stand out on the hill and several of the original statues from the Charles Bridge are located in the cemetery there.
And what kind of tourists would we have been if we didn’t visit the Choco-Factory Museum? It was fun to learn more about the history of chocolate, as well as sample some handmade goodies! http://www.choco-story-praha.cz/en/

We did eat well while we were in Prague – from traditional goulash with bread dumplings to pork smothered in gravy also with bread dumplings!


Desserts were our favorites – and they were plentiful! Crepes with ice cream and chocolate were especially good.
Someone in Prague must be pretty rich. We saw this Porsche one afternoon. We didn’t meet them, so I guess we will have to go back!