Travel with Tobey and Sue

Travel with Tobey and Sue
Tobey and Sue in Africa

Thursday, September 3, 2015

September 3, 2015 - Oxford, England

Today Tobey and I took “Walk 10 – The Castle to the Cemetery,” with a few modifications. The walk took us through the Medieval Jewish Quarter of Oxford. We walked to City Center and headed to the Oxford Castle. The first building we came upon was not the castle at all, but the County Council Building! The castle is just to the north and west of this building.
We entered through the courtyard and bought tickets for the guided tour of the Castle and Tower.

The guide, dressed as a prisoner from the 1700s, gave a fun and informative tour and history of the castle which dates back o 1071AD when William the Conqueror took control of England after his victory at the Battle of Hastings. The initial castle was simply an earthwork mound which was surrounded by a wooden palisade. The motte rose over 60 feet.
The most dramatic moment in the military history of Oxford Castle came in 1142, at the height of the Civil War between King Stephen and Matilda. Matilda was nominated by her father, King Henry 1, as the heir to the throne of England, but in 1135, Stephen of Blois, her cousin, claimed that his uncle had changed his mind on his deathbed, naming him heir instead. Matilda’s army was besieged within the castle for nearly three weeks, and it seemed that surrender was the only choice as they ran short of supplies. However, in a scene that rivals the movies, Matilda was lowered over the castle walls in the dead of night, and wrapped in a white cloak as camouflage against the swirling snow, she ice skated through the king's army camp and across the frozen Thames to safety. Matilda was eventually captured and held prisoner at Oxford Castle. In 1153, Stephen agreed to the Treaty of Westminster with Matilda's son Henry of Anjou. This stated that Stephen should remain king for life (in the event this was less than one more year) and then Henry should succeed him. Stephen died in 1154 (Natural causes? Who knows?) and Henry was crowned King Henry I.

Our tour took us up the Saxon St. George’s Tower - 100+ circular stairway steps to see beautiful views of the city.
On the left in the picture above, you can see the original “motte” or mound where the wooden palisade was constructed.

After the tower, we descended underground into the 900 year old crypt, the only surviving remains of St. George’s Chapel. It is said this is where Geoffrey of Monmouth wrote the Legends of King Arthur!


Most of the castle was destroyed in the 1640s, during the English Civil War, and by the 18th century the remaining buildings became Oxford's local prison. A new prison complex was built on the site from 1785 and operated until 1996!

Most of the prison area has been redeveloped into a luxury hotel!

We didn’t go in to check it out, but our guide said the rooms still use the same prison doors into the “cells!”

Our walking tour took us past several buildings we have already seen, but it was fun to read the historic descriptions in the guide book. The large stone building below is the Oxford Town Hall which also houses the Oxford Museum.

On the top of the Town Hall building is a golden oxen weathervane. In the 13th century it was supposed to have belonged to a wealthy Jewish man named David of Oxford. The Jewish history is long and complicated, but it now rests atop Town Hall!

Further down the street we stopped into Alice’s Shop. It is definitely a tourist stop, but is supposedly where Alice Liddel loved to buy her sweets. The shop (and Alice) were the inspiration for the Old Sheep Shop in Lewis Carroll's Through the Looking Glass. Every item for sale is related to the Adventures of Alice in Wonderland ! I am happy to report that I only purchased one postcard.
After escaping an afternoon shower, we wandered back through the Covered Market and made our way to a downtown grocery to pick up a few items before heading back to Tyler’s.

After Tyler returned from Birmingham, we went out to Zheng Restaurant for dinner. It is just around the corner and we were lucky to get in since you normally need reservations at almost any restaurant in the evening! It was an interesting menu with Malaysian, Singaporean, and a variety of Chinese dishes. We had vegetarian spring rolls, fried rice, chicken satay with peppers and onions, Nasa Pattaya (fried rice with prawns wrapped in a egg), and Miao clay pot chicken. Everything was delicious and more than we could finish!
Tomorrow Tobey is going with Tyler back to Birmingham – another early morning start! I think I will stay in Oxford and go poke around some of the shops in City Center.

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