Travel with Tobey and Sue

Travel with Tobey and Sue
Tobey and Sue in Africa

Monday, September 30, 2024

September 30, 2024 - Colca Canyon, Peru

We thought we were getting a 5:45am wake up call, but the phone rang at 5:30. I was already awake, but it was still not something I was looking forward to. Fortunately, I felt so much better today! After breakfast, we were down five people from our group for the morning's adventure. (Three of them joined us at lunch) So, at 7:00 am we were shuttled from our hotel to the town in little vans because the road is too small for the bus to navigate, then transferred to the bus and we were off to see condors.

On the way we went through an area that has lots of terraced farming. Many of the terraces date back to 2400BC!! There are over 36,000 acres of terraces in this area. Jose explained to us the rituals around farming and harvests. Most families own about 7 acres of land and family farming represents more than 60% of the agriculture in Peru! The top three crops are potatoes, corn, and quinoa. Many people are starting to sell their farms and move to cities because there are problems with erosion, tremors from the volcanos, and the soil not being as productive. Most of the farming is done by hand with shovels and picks, but some do have oxen to help pull their plows.
About an hour later we arrived at the Mirador Cruz de Condor. The best time to see the flight of the condors is between 8am and 10am and sunny days. We lucked out on both accounts!

The Andean condor is the second largest flying bird on the planet (second only to the albatross). Its main habitat is the Andes Mountains. This viewpoint in the Colca Canyon offered incredible views of the area as well as seeing the condors fly. The elevation is about 12,500 feet here but we were both fine today. There were hundreds of tourists, but we were not disappointed. These two juvenile condors were sitting on a rock not far from the walkway. Our guide said they were about 3-4 years old.
You can see how close people were able to get to them to snap pictures!
They took off in flight, and there were several others circling in and around the canyon.
Condors lay one egg every 2-3 years and both parents incubate the egg - about 2 month. The "couple" stay together and raise the baby condor until it is about 1-1/2 to 2 years old. The babies start to fly around six months of age. Total life expectancy in the wild is about 35 years. The condors are more brownish as a juvenile and are black and have the white ring as an adult.

We hiked down to a second lookout and saw more condors taking to the sky.



There are a couple miles of hiking trails that go through the valley, but we only had about 1-1/2 hours, so that was out of the question this trip!
At the lower lookout point we also saw a couple of falcons flying in the valley.


Of course, there were lots of opportunities for souvenirs or you could pay 1Sol (about 25 cents) to have your picture taken with a "real live condor"!


We headed off to the town of Maka where we were able to visit the Saint Ann Church and see the town square. The church was built in the 1800s and you can see it has suffered damage from volcanic tremors.
In 2006, some restoration was done. The inside was beautiful.
Along the town square we could have our picture taken with a local woman and her baby alpaca for 1Sol (about 25cents).

This one was decked out with a hat AND sunglasses.

Another local let you hold the baby.

Jose told us the history of this statue. During a celebration, men went and were dressed as soldiers, and there was a fair amount of alcohol consumed. The wife then went and carried him home! There was a bit more to the story, but my memory isn't too good today!
From here we headed to our lunch stop at the Alpaca Chef Restaurant. Mama Juanita is the owner and she came out and greeted us and told us about all the choices on the buffet. We had the corn soup which is very traditional in Peru, as well as alpaca in a sauce with french fries. The sweet potatoes were amazing, too. Our guide took group pictures of us with Mama Juanita, but I will need to wait until he shares them with us!

After lunch we drove a little further to visit a family that now runs a "museum" business. There are six families and today Tomas, Tomasa, David, and Bridgett were there to show us weaving, how they spin the alpaca fibers, and told us about their clothing.

Tomasa said that she usually spends six hours a day for seven days to weave a small blanket - about 24" x 36".

Jose then explained about different rituals performed by the people. All of the rituals include coca leaves, animal fat, sea shells (to ask for rain), the fetus of an alpaca or llama, and blood. (from an animal). It was interesting to hear.

After that, all of the women had the opportunity to dress in traditional clothing. Normally, the women wear two skirts and they are very heavy!

Do I look like a Pervian woman?? This was most of our women and Jose next to me.

We then went out on the street and danced with Jose and Bridgett.

We again had a chance to do a little shopping and I got a new hat for 35Sol (less than $10USD). I will wear it in future pictures!

From here we headed back to our hotel. We stopped a couple times for pictures. I love the terraced farms.

Our last stop where we switched from our bus to vans was in the village of Coporaque.
Tomorrow we will take vans again (at 6:30 in the morning!) back and start our journey to Puno. It will be a 5:00 am wake up call so goodnight!

September 29, 2024 - Arequipa to Colca, Peru

We took off from the hotel by 8:00 am this morning with lots of stops on our way to Arequipa. Before we left, Tobey and I had noticed lots of Lions Club signs as we came into town. There was a park across the street from our hotel and these signs all around, so we are counting this as visiting a Lions Club in Peru!

Our first stop in Arequipa was a local market. It was huge and had shops on two levels and outside, as well.
Check out the size of those strawberries!

We did not buy any chicken, but it was available in many shapes!

We had a chance to try a local fruit, chirimoya. It is also known as a custard apple. It was like a cross between an apple and a pear. The chirimoy is the green one, the pepino is striped.

Then we tried a pepino melon which are related to tomatoes and peppers and grown on evergreen shrubs. They tasted like a cross between a cantaloupe and honeydew melon. Tobey is holding the pepino.

Stocking the shelves!
After an interesting stop at the market we were back on the bus and our local guide, Jose, continued sharing information about the area with us.

Most of the local people are working 48 hours a week (6 day week) and earn about $280 USD a MONTH!

Peru is divided politically into 24 departments (states) and in the Departamento of Arequipa there are 29 townships. There are about 1 million people in the urban area of Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru. Its metropolitan area includes 21 districts, including the central area which is the seat of the city governnment. It is also an important industrial and commercial center of Peru.

Here are more views as we left the city. This outdoor city market went for blocks!

We saw lots of tuk tuks which can be used as local taxis.

We crossed the river on our way out of town.
There are several large cement plants just outside of Arequipa.

This weird grid below is the layout for a community. If so much of this looks like desert, it is. This is part of the Atacama Desert, the dryest "non-polar" place on earth. The annual rainfall is about 4 inches!
We continued through different regions, this area had cacti vegetation.
Later we crossed into an area with grasses.

The roads are narrow and very winding.

You could see areas where irrigation takes place!
Soon we were in Las Bicuñas National Reserve. The vicuna is one of the two wild South American camelids which live in the high alpine area of the Andes. There are about 300,000 vicunas in Peru and we saw some as we were driving to our lunch stop. Their life expectancy is about 14 years. The local people are allowed to catch them and shave them for their fur. One Kilogram of vicuna fiber is worth about $300USD, but it takes MANY vicunas to get that much.



Lunch break view

We stopped for a box lunch break then back on our way to Mirador de los Andes for our volcano overlook. The first picture below is a llama enclosure. The local people raise llamas and put them in the enclosures when then get ready to shear them.
Llamas and alpacas are often raised together.


We finally arrived at the Mirador (overlook). No one warned us that it was 16,203 feet! We definitely felt light headed and a bit woozy!

We could see one of the volcanoes in the distance spouting steam.


Lots of rocks were piled up by local people, as well as tourists.

This little girl was at one of the booths helping her mom.


I was glad to get back on the bus because I was NOT feeling good. I ended up with a terrible headache and upset stomach and we still had MILES to go before we got to the Colca Canyon and out hotel. We went from Arequipa on the lower right hand corner of the map up to Chivay on that winding road!

I snapped a few pictures before I pulled my hat over my head and closed my eyes for the rest of our journey!
Chivay terraces

Once we checked into our hotel, Aranwa Pueblito Encantado del Colca, we changed into our bathing suits and went to the hot springs just outside the hotel. They were okay and was nice to relax. Fortunately, we had time for showers before dinner at 7pm. Some tylenol and rest and more water seemed to do the trick! Tomorrow morning is another early start - wake up call at 5:45 am!