Travel with Tobey and Sue

Travel with Tobey and Sue
Tobey and Sue in Africa

Monday, September 15, 2025

September 14, 2025 - Istanbul, Turkey

It was a rough night for us. Neither of us slept well starting off with the people in the room next door talking so loud I thought they were standing next to us. I ended up calling the front desk about 10:30 and they actually sent someone up to ask them to quiet down. They did, and it was better. We were up by 6:30 this morning and off to breakfast about 7:15. Our group met for our official tour and were heading to the bus about 9:00am.

Our first stop was the Hagia Sophia. Hagia Sophia is an important Byzantine structure and one of the world's greatest monuments. It was built as a Christian church in the 6th century (532-537AD) under the direction of the Byzantine emperor, Justinian I. Later it became a mosques, a museum, and a mosque again. It's interesting that the building reflects the different religious changes that have occurred in the region over the centuries. there are minarets and inscriptions of Islam, as well as lavish mosaics of Christianity.

Tobey, Wendy, and I visited here in 2008 and have noticed MANY changes. First, and foremost is the HUGE number of people visiting the sites today. The building is also under renovations so much of the outside has scaffolding surrounding it. We were not able to go into the main level this time, but viewed most of the inside from the second level balconies.


The central building has a huge 105-foot main dome supported on a triangular segment which then has two semidomes. It's hard to explain, but it's impressive architecture. When we visited in 2008, they were doing renovations in the main level so we were able to be down there and look directly up to the ceilings.


In the apse of the Hagia Sophia, the Virgin with Child sit surrounded by a vast expanse of gold. The mosaics are from the 9th century. There were more mosaics in the original building, but because of Muslim law, no images of holy people can be displayed so they were painted over. Surprisingly, these images still remain.

This mosaic is not painted over. Early pilgrims visiting the Hagia Sophia took pieces of the mosaic as mementos of their visit!


There are four angels like this painted around the ceiling dome.

One of the fountains outside.

From the Hagia Sofia we walked to the Sultanahmet Camii, more commonly called the Blue Mosque.

We waited in this huge line around the mosque for our turn to enter. Once you get up the stairs at the far end, you must remove your shoes because it is a holy place. If you are Muslim and go to pray, they have washing stations. They wash their heads, hand, and feet before entering.
These are some other views around the outside of the mosque.



This area inside the mosque is blocked off and only people who come to worship are allowed in.

You can see the beautiful stained glass windows around the top of the mosque.

We were shocked at the changes. We had been able to walk all around the floor area in the mosque and there were very few people. Now the crowds made it difficult to move.

After our short stay inside, we headed out to the Hippodrome of Constantinople, now Sultanahmet Square. The historical monuments and public square outlined the former racetrack where chariot races were held. The Obelisk of Theodosius, the Serpent Column, and the Masonry Obelisk are located in the Hippodrome. The Hippodrome of Constantinople was the heart of the city's political and social life for almost 900 years.

This is the Egyptian Obelisk. It is only the top third of the original obelisk built for the great temple of Karnak in Egypt. The Romans had it cut into pieces and shipped up the River Nile to Alexandria in 390AD. This top section has survived nearly 3,500 years and stands where Emperor Theodosius placed it, on a marble pedestal, to commemorate his 20th anniversary on the throne of Constantinople. The reliefs on the pedestal show Theodosius as he offers a laurel wreath to the victor from the Kathisma (Imperial Box) at the Hippodrome.

The Serpent Column was originally part of a victory tripod which was dedicated to the Sanctuary of Apollo in Delphi by the Greeks in 479BC. It has three snakes twisting around each other and originally three heads branched out of the top of the snake. They were all knocked off by 1700AD. The missing upper heads were discovered in 1848 and are now at the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.

The Masonry Obelisk is not technically an obelisk because it not made of granite. It is made from limestone blocks. It was originally sheathed in bronze. It was restored in 1895 and traces of lead pipe were found under the pedestal suggesting that it once served as a fountain.

From here we headed to a restaurant for the "included" lunch from EF Tours. There were some appetizers which were pretty good, but I didn't care for the main dish. Tobey got the "beef" option which was a meatball. I took the mixed plate which had a small meatball and some chicken pieces with the veggies. We all got the small pistachio pastry and an unusual ice cream for dessert. 


Once lunch was finished, we walked to the Topkapi Palace Museum. Again, we were shocked at how crowded it was and the lines to see the exhibits. Construction began in 1459 and expanded over the centuries after earthquakes and fires. There are four main courtyards and many smaller buildings. We toured the harem, where the female members of the Sultan's family lived, as well as the Relic room which had a fragment of John the Baptist's arm.





The tile mosaics were beautiful.



We headed back to the hotel after our visit to the Topkapi Palace and we were ready for a break. After resting a while, Wendy, Bill, Tobey and I walked to a restaurant for dinner. We split a chicken duran. It was okay, but not as good as the one we had last night.
We all shared the chocolate pudding for dessert.
We didn't have any, but saw these potato crisps as we were leaving. They look like they would be tasty.
Tomorrow we hit the road at 8:00, so it's off to bed. 

Saturday, September 13, 2025

September 13, 2025 - Istanbul, Turkey

We were up around 7:00 and met Wendy, Shari and Bill for breakfast at 8:0am, before checking out of our hotel. We walked around the block to the Kent Hotel where we are staying for the next two nights and checked our bags before venturing out for the day. This is the view as we headed out this morning. I had mapped out some areas we might want to see and we were off.

We passed lots of shops as we heading to the first stop - this one catering to the big guys.

We are going back to this Turkish Delight shop at the end of the trip to get treats to bring home.

We passed by the Sehzadebasi Cami, one of the many mosques in Istanbul. It is a 16th century Ottoman imperial mosque in the district of Fatih, on the third hill of Istanbul. It was commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent as a memorial to his son who died in 1543.

This was on one of the doors just inside.

Sarachane Park is next to the mosque and cats, cats, everywhere! This guy had about five cats following him. I'm sure they were expecting treats.

The Burmali Mosque is another 16 century Ottoman mosque in Sarachne Park. It was built in 1550 and is named for its spiraling brick minaret, a copy of a Seljug design that is unique in Istanbul.

This was a statue at the entrance to the park.

The large statue of a sultan on a horse is in the middle of the park.

At the end of the park are the Aqueduct of Valens. It is one of the oldest and most impressive structures in Istanbul. Construction began under Emperor Constantine the Great (306-337) and was completed by Emperor Valens in 375AD! It was built to bring clean water into the city when it was the capitol of the Byzantine Empire. For over 1,500 years, the aqueduct carried water from the Belgrad Forest to the center of the city, ending at a large fountain near Beyazit Square.

Now city streets run through the arches!

Continuing on, we passed the Fatih Mosque.

It is a very large complex, which includes a mosque, a madrasah (religious school), a daruÅŸÅŸifa (hospital), a Turkish bath, a bazaar, a library, and the tombs. It was constructed between 1463-1470!


The small arch looking stings along the front of the mosque are washing stations. Muslims are careful to prepare themselves before praying by washing. The washing is called wudu and involves washing their hands, mouth, nostrils, arms, head, and feet with water. Most mosques have separate areas for men and women to wash. This was a peak inside.

We continued on to the neighborhoods of Fener and Balat which are known for their colorful houses (and steep hills!).

I loved seeing the different foods and spices for sale as we passed by the many shops.


This was really cool to see. It was a bakery and the bread was on a conveyor belt. It looked like it passed through the oven, then out and back through again until it was the right color of doneness.

We got a glimpse of the Galata Tower which is across the Bosphorus Strait.

Continuing on ....

More cats!


And we arrived to the colorful houses!

We were there!






We headed down the hill and walked along the Golden Horn heading back toward our hotel.
We spotted the Bulgarian Church and stopped to take a look. It was built in the 1800s.


We continued along the water and could see the Galata Tower which was built in the 1200s.

There were lots of folks fishing and enjoying the park along the water.

One family even brought their fancy chickens to the park with them!
We had to pass under the road along the tram tunnel and there were mural along the way. It was pretty interesting to see.

By now it was after 1pm and we were all getting tired and hungry so made our way back (now UP the hills) toward our hotel. We stopped for lunch at the Chef Murad Restaurant. Tobey and I split a cheese pide.

We watched several other people get this puffy bread so we ordered one to share. Ours un-puffed almost before it arrived at our table. It was pretty bland, but okay. It seems like the locals were served some kind of things to dip the bread in which would have been better - I think.

We arrived back at the hotel around 2:30 after walking over five miles and got checked into our rooms. We spent time relaxing and Tobey took another walk before we joined the group for our meet and greet with our local tour director at 6:30 tonight. After our meeting, Bill and Shari and Tobey and I went out to grab a small dinner since it was almost 8:30! We stopped at the Lalelim Bufe and had a delicious beef duren and fresh squeezed orange juice.

The meat was delicious and it was all we could do to finish the one sandwich between us!

It's almost 10:00pm and breakfast is at 7:30 and the tour begins at 9:00 so it will be a full day. Good night from Istanbul!